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The River Dart - A Journey: part 2
South Devon Railway
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The River Dart - A Journey: part 2
Buckfast Abbey
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The River Dart - A Journey: part 2
Canoeing
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The River Dart - A Journey: part 2
East Window Buckfast Abbey
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The River Dart - A Journey: part 2
Holne Bridge
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The River Dart - A Journey: part 2
My Dear Mother
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The River Dart - A Journey: part 2
South Devon Railway
The River Dart - A Journey: part 2
by Nick Shepherd
If you joined me in the first part of this journey, you would have experienced the cascading bubbling waters of the East and West Dart passing along barren moorland before meeting at the well known beauty spot of Dartmeet. From here, the river now slowly starts to change character as it winds through wooded valleys and meadows before eventually ‘opening out’ at Totnes, where it becomes partially tidal.
Often deep and meandering, the River Dart passes in the vicinity of many historic attractions and I have outlined some of the more significant ones in the second part of this article.
Jolly Lane Cot
Approximately 2 miles south of Dartmeet stands the quiet hamlet of Hexworthy with its crossing over the Dart at Huccaby Bridge. Not far from the bridge is Jolly Lane Cot, the last house to be built in a day on Dartmoor. It was the custom that if a man could enclose a piece of land, build a house in a day, and have a fire burning in the hearth by nightfall, the land became his. It is thought that the house was built in June 1835 by farm labourers whilst the owners were away at the Ashburton Fair.
Buckland in the Moor
Buckland in the Moor is a charming village on the banks of the River Dart and is characterised by its chocolate box thatched cottages. Of particular fascination is the clock face on St Peter’s church which instead of bearing roman numerals has the words “My Dear Mother” emblazoned around its circumference.
It was commissioned by the then Lord of the Manor, William Whitley, in tribute to his late mother. It was made by John Smiths and Sons of Derby who were noted for their clocks and chiming bells, having examples of their work in St. Paul’s Cathedral. As you can see I last visited the church in the morning at ‘h’ minutes past ‘y’ (10.25a.m.)!
Holne Bridge and New Bridge
The 3 mile stretch of fast flowing water from New Bridge to Holne Bridge is known by canoeists as “the loop” and is considered to be one of the most demanding stretches of white water canoeing in the South West. It is certainly not a place for novices, as after heavy rain, the river can rise several feet in just an hour. The present Holne Bridge was constructed in 1413 (same as New Bridge) after the original was destroyed by a winter flood. Holne Bridge looks particularly beautiful in the autumn.
Buckfast Abbey
A more mature and sedate River Dart flanks the eastern side of this imposing abbey which is home to a Roman Catholic community of Benedictine monks. The original abbey is said to have been founded in 1018 by Aethelweard, an earl in Cnut’s time, but it gradually fell into disrepair. Rebuilding on the site began in 1882 with initial construction on the church in 1907. The final piece of the jigsaw, the tower, was finally completed in 1938.
The abbey is open to the public where you can find a gift shop, book shop and a farm shop where you can purchase the produce of the monks’ farm which includes honey and the famous tonic wine. In my opinion, however, this is very much secondary to the beautiful church which rightly remains the ‘star attraction’.
South Devon Railway
This railway tracks (excuse the pun) the River Dart from Buckfastleigh to Totnes passing through the timeless station of Staverton on its way. The original line was built by the South Devon Railway and opened on the 1st May 1872. It was subsequently taken over by the Great Western Railway (GWR) in 1876. After closing in 1962 it was reopened as a preserved steam line in 1969.
Ironically it was reopened by Doctor Richard Beeching whose dubious notoriety was for wielding the axe to local uneconomic lines. This year sees its 40th anniversary and will be commemorated by many special events. Like our own Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway, the engines are a major attraction to locals and visitors alike. If you can’t personally make a visit, Buckfastleigh have a very good webcam where you can watch the engines go in and out of the station.
In "The River Dart - A Journey Part 3', I shall be looking at the final stage of our journey from Totnes to Dartmouth where although we see vast changes in the river’s dimensions, its appeal and beauty remain undiminished.
Reference: All photographs © Nick Shepherd
Website: www.nickshepherd.com www.legendarydartmoor.co.uk www.bbc.co.uk/devon
Down the River Dart by Gordon Hill
First published May 2009 By the Dart