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Anchorstone Rock
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Old Mill Creek
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Noss Marina
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Greenway Boathouse
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Greenway Quay
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Stration Restaurant
Hidden Treasures along the River Dart - Part 2 Greenway Quay to Dartmouth Castle
Last month I described my journey on board the River Rat from Totnes to Dittisham, taking in the hidden treasures pointed out to me by skipper Tim Burke along the route. Well, after a pint stop at the Ferry Boat Inn we set off to the mouth of the river on the second leg of our discovery trip.
First off, and directly opposite Dittisham pontoon, is Greenway Quay, complete with light refreshment facilities. The quay is home to Greenway ferries and the beautiful holiday house and gardens of the much-loved crime novelist Agatha Christie. The property is now owned by the National Trust and, although it can be accessed by road from Kingswear, parking is extremely limited and visitors are very much encouraged to travel by “green ways”, most usually via the Greenway Quay. See www.nationaltrust.co.uk/greenway and www.greenwayferry.co.uk for more information.
Although we couldn’t see it due to the high tide, just outside Dittisham, Tim pointed out the location of Anchorstone Rock. At lower tides, sunbathing seals can be seen here and it is said to be the spot where Sir Walter Raleigh smoked his pipe and possibly pondered on his next voyage. Less glamourously, it is also said to be the place where witches were tied up to be taken by the incoming tide. I presume, in the tradition of witch hunting, that in the unlikely event they survived the drowning, they would have proven their witch credentials and be met with an even worse fate.
On a less gruesome note, we then passed the Greenway bathhouse with its distinctive three arches where the tide used to lap in to provide fresh bathing water for the Greenway estate workers.
Idyllic picnic and barbecue spots peeped out along the tree lined banks as the river widened on its voyage to the coast. Tim recounted many alfresco suppers on the banks, often with produce caught in the river.
Just a mile or so before Dartmouth lies Old Mill Creek, nestled in a steep sided wooded valley and home to the working hub of the Old Mill Boatyard and Butler and Co, wooden boatbuilders.
Things started to get wider and busier now as Noss Marina came into view and the hustle and bustle of Dartmouth greeted us with choppier waters.
As we approached the higher ferry the water traffic built up, and passing skippers and sailors bid each other well.
The battleship grey warships signalled the advance of Dartmouth’s famous landmark - the majestic Britannia Royal Naval College, where HRH Queen Elizabeth II first met her Prince Phillip. Naval officers have been trained here for more than 100 years and, prior to that, they were trained on the old wooden ship HMS Britannia moored in the river. For details of times when the college is open to the public see www.britanniaassociation.org.uk
After the college things got really busy in the bustle of the port of Dartmouth. The steam trains on the Paignton to Dartmouth railway jostled with the ferries and private boats to get passengers around the river and between the town and Kingswear on the opposite side. To get around, Riverlink run ferries, trains and buses on a very regular basis. See www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk for more information and timetables.
Also, Dartmouth Yacht Charters have a fleet of yachts of all sizes available and South Devon Cruises charter the spacious and stylish Admirals Tender vessel.
There is a wealth of eateries and good pubs both sides of the river, including the conveniently situated Station Cafe on the Dartmouth side and the Royal Dart in Kingswear.
Or if you want to stay on the water then the Resnova Floating Restaurant and Inn is the perfect place to moor up for either a scrumptious meal or a quick pint.
Permanently moored in the centre of Dartmouth Harbour, this substantial steel Dutch barge is amazingly stable and comfortable. It also has wide, sturdy pontoons for its fleet of courtesy water taxis or your own boat to moor safely.
Heading out now to the very mouth of the Dart, past Bayards Cove, the pretty beaches of Sugary Cove and Warfleet Creek come into view. Tim can easily drop you here for a bathe, picnic or mooch around the rock pools.
If you’re very observant, around this point you may spot the bronze mermaid statue sitting quietly on the end of someone’s jetty.
And then, right at the end before the river becomes the sea, stands Dartmouth Castle.
For more than 600 years the castle has guarded the narrow entrance to the Dart Estuary and the port of Dartmouth, and it’s well worth a visit. Unusually for a castle it also has a church, St Petrox, in its grounds. A climb to the top of the gun tower will reward you with breathtaking views across the estuary.
Visit www.english-heritage.org.uk/dartmouth-castle for information on opening times and reenactment events throughout the summer.
And finally, nestled underneath the castle, is one of my favourite spots in the whole world - the gorgeous Castle Cove.Thanks to the relentless work of the Save Castle Cove campaigners the beach is accessible again after its access was battered by storms. The reopening of the swimming platform is still a work in progress but this beach is worth a visit any day of the year.
And so, after a tantalising glance at Castle Cove, Tim turned the River Rat around for the return trip to Totnes.
Tim has skippered the River Rat since 2000. He also owns the River Otter, which skipper Jim Hardy is about to hand over to Pat Hobbs, a boatman of many years.
Tim has been a boatman all his adult life, from working on the Brixham Trawlers to being part of Pete Goss’ catamaran team. And he certainly knows the River Dart.
The River Rat runs all year round, from small trips around Totnes to pub crawls and all day excursions. All trips are tide dependent and longer excursions may need pre booking.
I had the most wonderful and relaxing day out on the River Rat. So much so, I caught myself singing on the way back to Totnes. I hope no-one else noticed!
Contact Tim on 07814 954 869 or www.riverrat.co.uk
