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The River Dart - A Journey: Part 3
by Nick Shepherd
Over the last two months we have experienced the tumbling waters of the moorland Dart and the beauty of the ‘middle stretch’ as the river flows gracefully through woodland and lush meadows. As we approach Totnes the river widens out and for the first time the influence of the sea starts to take affect. As the river makes its final part of the journey it passes by tranquil villages hugging the banks of the ‘estuary’ before making its great escape between the castles of Dartmouth and Kingswear.
Landscape
Although many people refer to the river Dart ‘estuary’, in geographical terms, it is technically classified as a ria. Rias are often referred to as drowned river valleys and form when sea levels rise relative to the land. When this happens, valleys which were previously at sea level become submerged. The Dart estuary is also somewhat unusual in having steep valley sides which originated during the last ice age.
Nature
Two tides a day, about 12 hours apart, flood the Dart Estuary up to Totnes weir. When the tide goes out large expanses of mud are exposed. These mudflats are home to thousands of burrowing animals, such as ragworms, furrow shells, cockles, crabs and various snails, which in turn provide food for a wealth of bird life.
Shelduck, dunlin, green sandpiper, curlew and redshank groom the mudflats. Heron, egret and kingfisher fish in the shallows while the reedbeds occupy the reed warblers and reed buntings. Sightings of Osprey catching salmon have also been reported although such occurrences are thought to be very rare.
From the hills and cliffs at the entrance of the Dart a variety of seagoing birds can be seen offshore. In the busy waterway between Dartmouth and Kingswear, gulls and cormorants perch on the moorings and marker buoys and, if you’re lucky, you’ll spot Sandwich terns fishing.
A small population of grey seals, about 20 in number, has made its home in the Dart and its surrounding waters. They have been seen fishing as far upriver as the weir at Totnes and are regularly found basking at various haul-out points at the mouth of the Dart. Otters have also been spotted bounding along the banks of the river.
Nearby Attractions
Dartington Hall - For a simple donation, these wonderful gardens can be visited throughout the year. Three woodland walks are connected by interlinking paths and the views over the estate are breathtaking. Rightly so, Dartington Hall is famed for its rich variety of camellias, magnolias and rhododendron.
Totnes Castle - English Heritage allows access to this classic Norman motte and bailey castle with its sweeping views across the town rooftops to the River Dart.
Greenway - Famous for being the former family home of Agatha Christie, the land and gardens was gifted to the National trust in 2000. The property is best reached by ferry as car parking is very limited.
Sharpham - Visitors are attracted to the farm shop where its traditional English wines can be purchased along with cheeses made from the rich milk of its organic Jersey Herd
Paignton and Dartmouth Railway brings wonderful views of the Dart estuary can be combined in ‘round robin’ trips which involve transportation by ferry, open- topped bus and steam railway.
Villages
The villages nestling along the shores of the Dart all have their own unique characteristics having been influenced by such factors as quarrying, fishing, farming, river crossing points and the railway. Naturally I do not have space to cover such aspects here but I would advise a visit to our wonderful Flavel Library where a wide selection of local history books are available.
We have been blessed with a river of great beauty and variation which has shaped (and will continue to shape) the lives of communities and individuals. In appreciating its origin and history, it is to be hoped that any changes brought about by man are carefully considered…for change is never easy to reverse.
First Published June 2009 By The Dart