Dartmouth Castle

Dartmouth Castle by Nick Shepherd

Boats reflecting in the early morning or evening light can truly be stunning and as I have always maintained “there is always something going on”. This can be simple things like rowers practising in their gigs, fishermen landing their catch, children catching crabs or more spectacular events like the Red Arrows at the Royal Regatta.

The visual “entertainment” is endless but as you get to know Dartmouth better, you slowly but surely start to appreciate the history around you. As you walk past iconic historical sites you begin to think of past events and associations. Bayards Cove and the Pilgrim Fathers, Gallants Bower and the Civil War, the 100 years war and fleets of ships at Warfleet. Even the lower ferry bearing John Hawley’s name reminds you of Privateering and Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales.

 As all these historical facts start flooding through your head, I can only wonder how history may have unfolded if it were not for the protection afforded by the “Guardian of the Dart” standing proud over the entrance to the estuary. Since the Middle Ages, the castle (really a fort) has played a major part in Dartmouth’s fortunes and has undoubtedly influenced how Dartmouth looks today. One should not forget that the castle even had a role as recently as the Second World War.

When people envisage the castle, they tend to think of the 15th century cylindrical gun tower which is clearly seen from the town and is beautifully floodlit at night. In reality the castle covers a much larger area than this and basically consists of three main sections which have been developed as its usage has changed.

The oldest surviving part of the castle is the Old Fortalice, its high walls can still be seen behind the small car park in front of the tea room. John Hawley as Mayor and leading merchant initiated the building of this fort in 1388 to protect Dartmouth from the French and Breton forces.  At this time, the only way to protect the harbour was to attack the enemy ships as they passed through the narrow estuary channel. Guns were not then in common use and it is thought that the Fortalice was erected to protect a battery of guns and stone throwing catapults.

The clearly recognisable Gun Tower was built between 1481 and 1495. Although the guns only had a range of 200 metres, this was sufficient to control the narrowest part of the harbour entrance. It was the first of its kind in Britain. Despite having these “modern” weapons, the rich merchants and seaman were still concerned about the defence of their harbour and came up with an ingenious plan. A chain stretching the length of the harbour was apparently attached from an iron ring set in the rock just outside the tower to a much older tower called Gommerock on the other side of the river.

In times of peace, the chain probably lay on the river bed. However, when attack threatened, the huge chain was wound in tight by a rope attached to a windlass. In addition the chain was supported at surface level by six small unmanned boats which were hired for 48 shillings per month. This was about half their replacement value reflecting both the risk of sinking and compensation for their withdrawal from normal commercial use. Any enemy boat caught on the chain could then be fired on with greater accuracy or even bombarded with large stones. The Dartmouth chain remained in place for almost two centuries. Its demise was brought about firstly, by the cost of its upkeep and secondly, by the greater range of more modern guns which meant that enemy shipping could be kept well away from the harbour entrance by sighting more powerful guns looking out to sea.

The majority of these more powerful guns were situated on or within The Old Battery which is adjacent and part of the English Heritage ticket office and shop. Running on iron rails and facing out to sea, two examples of guns which were in situ at the late 19th century can still be seen. The most apparent is the one next to the ticket office which is still in full working order and is unforgettably demonstrated by authentically dressed artillerymen at “the Thunder of the Gun” event. Do not go if you are of a nervous disposition! The second is well below ground in The Casemates which offered better protection from enemy shells. Guns like these were intended to be used against steam-driven warships and had a range of 3500 metres. They could easily pierce armour plate.

During the Second World War, particularly following the evacuation from Dunkirk, there was a real risk of an invasion on Britain’s southern coast. To meet the threat, two 4.7 inch guns were installed on the 19th century battery. These were formerly World War Royal Navy Ship Guns which were mothballed after the great naval battles at that time. One gun stood on the roof of the Old Battery, in its brick-built gun shelter disguised by imitation medieval battlements. The other stood on the cliff top 150 metres to the South. Each gun was served by a target-seeking searchlight and a machine-gun post was built down on the rocks by the medieval gun tower. “Back up” was available on the other side of the river with guns at Froward Point and a torpedo-launching station near Kingswear Castle.

Since 1984 the castle has been in the care of English Heritage from whom the majority of this information has kindly been obtained. Many interesting events take place at the Castle which capture its history. I suggest you visit English Heritage’s website for more details (www.english-heritage.org.uk)

Having read this article or perhaps attended one of these events, you may begin to appreciate the importance of the castle to Dartmouth and its history. I think that Brian K. Davison OBE eloquently sums up the situation in the English Heritage guide when he writes…. “Few places show more clearly Britain’s determination to protect her shores”

Hopefully with our support via English Heritage, Dartmouth castle will in turn be protected for future generations.

For map & directions, CLICK HERE. 

First published May 2008, By The Dart

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