Terry Edwards
Terry Edwards
Terry Edwards
In my mind I had it all planned – a sunny walk from Dartmouth out to the Castle Tea Rooms, a cold drink sitting in the sunshine with Terry Edwards the manager, and a natter about his life and work while the sky and sea shimmered blue beyond us.
Of course the elements had other ideas and, welly booted and anoraked, I set off with the dog through the mist and rain, dodging soggy leaves and muttering about the weather being ok if you’re the Warfleet ducks.
Instead of a vista of blue I was greeted by cliffs shrouded in low cloud and a boiling sea of rolling grey, and I was drenched. There was nothing for it but to dive for cover and thank heavens for a warm welcome, a cosy corner, the tantalising smell of toasting teacakes and even a drink for the dog (who was allowed to tuck herself under the table and dry off too.) The Castle Tea Rooms are perfectly placed to cheer and reward the rainy day walker.
Inside the spectacular view dominates one entire side of the café, with pretty blue benches lining its huge windows. Terry presented me with an enormous and delicious cappuccino and we marvelled at the impressive scenery beyond, all the more wonderful on a rough day when viewed from such a safe and snug vantage point.
“It’s the best thing about this job,” said Terry, who has been the tea rooms’ manager since February 2007, and is a familiar sight cycling to and fro his picturesque work place from his home in the centre of Dartmouth.
“I made the conscious decision to become car-free in 1994 and it benefits my health and my pocket! I love the ride out here in the early morning, being here alone and looking at that wonderful view. I don’t mind the rain - whatever the weather it’s amazing and changes every day. Sometimes I’m here for the most fantastic sunrises. In October 2008 I witnessed a beautiful sunrise with Venus still shining and took a quick picture on my mobile. It is a special place.”
Even on a day off, Terry rides out to the tea rooms and opens up, saving his staff an early start: “I’m not spying on them - at that time there’s only me here! I just love it so much so I come here before I go off for the day and do my own thing.”
More often than not a day off sees the proud grandad spending time with his five grandchildren. His face lights up as he talks about this three daughters, two granddaughters and three grandsons.
So how did this Dorset-born, Aston Villa supporting, cricket loving former bus driver, civil servant and Bristol Prison prison officer start selling cream teas and tasty lunches to hikers and holiday makers? The story is one of travel, heartbreak and the overwhelming kindness of friends.
As we warmed our hands on our coffee cups, Terry explained: “I came here to work in Dartmouth Castle in 1994, as a seasonal custodian for English Heritage. Over the course of 11 years I eventually became the manager its four Devon castles – Dartmouth, Totnes, Okehampton and Berry Pomeroy.
“I enjoyed my work and I was very busy in the community, singing in the church choir, being a churchwarden, involved with various groups and committees, but I decided to take early retirement with a view to emigrating to Australia with my wife, to start a new life in Perth.
“I loved Perth and I loved Australia, but it didn’t work out. Sadly I returned on my own. It was a parting of the ways and I returned to Dartmouth – and that’s when the Dartmouth folk were so wonderful.”
He went on: “First my friend, Tim Hailstone, sent a simple text just saying ‘If you need somewhere to live you can come and stay at my house for as long as you wish.’ Nothing more. I was so grateful.
“After three months I found myself a flat but had nothing to go in it, and thanks to Dartmouth people quietly giving their support I furnished the whole flat with things people gave me or let me borrow – everything from cutlery to the bed! I had never known such kindness – it was quite overwhelming.”
Terry started working part time in the Castle Tea Rooms, housed in the base of the original castle light building, which was installed in 1856 to guide ships into the harbour. (Council records from that time document an irate artillery man refusing to light the light because he and his colleagues had not been paid!) After just a few years, new lights were put up on the Kingswear side of the river and the light was removed.
Use of the building as a tea room is recorded as far back as the 19th Century, and in the tea rooms today are some lovely old pictures showing the building as it once was.
Terry said: “My friend Tim always liked the tea rooms and said if ever the café was put up for sale, he would like to own it. In February 2007 it became his, and I have been running it for him ever since!”
An extensive programme of modernisation has improved the kitchen and transformed the interior with its nautical benches and painted blue and white dressers full of books for sale and tempting cakes, huge and delicious under glass domes. Outside the original stone work has been exposed following the careful removal of unsightly cladding.
The menu is kept deliberately simple but tasty with homemade cakes, pies, pasties and soups all sourced locally, and bread and scones from Dartmouth bakeries. Terry said: “Good, wholesome, fresh food is what we do well, and a range of lovely ice creams too!”
In fact this wasn’t my first visit to the Castle Tea Rooms – far from it! And while I love the feeling of being tucked up inside away from the rain, with two thirds of the seating outside that is the place to sit, the mouth of the river beside you and the sea in front, as soon as the showers stop.
On a freezing winter’s day its sheltered terrace is a great spot for a hot chocolate with lashings of whipped cream, and on a boiling summer’s day it’s the place to collapse with a cornet, cold drink or even a glass of wine or beer before wandering back to Dartmouth or hopping on the little Castle Ferry.
Terry hasn’t quite got rid of the travel bug and is currently planning a trip to Egypt, but these days he likes to be away no more than a couple of weeks before coming back to the tea rooms. He said: “I never get that gloomy back-to-work feeling because I’m coming back to this and I love it so much! One of the benefits of going away is realising how lucky I am when I come back to what I have every day!”
The Castle Tea Rooms are open throughout the year.
First published November 2009 By the Dart