laughing monk
The Laughing Monk
We were delighted to have another opportunity to enjoy a meal here since its recent “make over”.
Ben and Jackie Handley have been extremely busy refurbishing during the New Year bringing a fresh contemporary look to the Laughing Monk in Strete. The Restaurant has been decorated in soft creams and subtle earthy shades. The walls are half panelled in cream painted wood with stripped floors and simple bespoke shutters made locally in Dartmouth. There is a lighter, more spacious feel to the dining room, which now has attractive artwork by local artist, Penny Perret on the walls. Opposite the bar is a comfortable seating area to enjoy a pre dinner drink.
The Handley’s took over the Laughing Monk in March 2008 and have had a very encouraging first year which is thoroughly deserved. Reassuringly, Jackie’s friendly welcome and extremely professional service has not changed and neither has the excellent standard of Ben’s cooking. This restaurant is very much a family concern and the couple have built up a loyal local clientele. Some things are worth repeating and we may have mentioned that dinner here is well worth driving out of town for… And it most definitely still is…Besides, it is only 15 minutes from Dartmouth, tops…and there is parking.
We do have high expectations of Ben’s cooking and the food, as usual, was a delight. Ben draws on over 20 years of top class experience culminating in his role as Executive chef of the 5 star Cavendish Hotel on the Chatsworth Estate (home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire) and its sister hotel The George. His knowledge and ability enables him to create interesting, assured food with a good balance of flavours. Local produce is used and suppliers include: Ken Durrant for meat, Richard Elliot for fish, Wilton Farm for vegetables and dairy provided by Dartmouth Dairy. Beer is supplied by Quercus Brewery and Wines are selected from Red and White.
We began our meal with Start Bay lobster and prawns in a filo basket with a lime mayonnaise and sweet and sticky pork with Asian salad and roasted cashew nuts. The crispiness of the filo pastry contrasted well with the softness of the lobster and prawns and the citrusy flavour of the mayo made this a clean, fresh tasting dish. The pork was deeply flavoursome and the marinade was sweetly Asiatic and the salad and cashew nuts were perfect accompaniments. Other starters include char grilled Cornish sardines on toast with chunky tomato sauce, pressed chicken, date and brandy terrine with onion marmalade & toast and Devon Blue cheese, green grape and tarragon salad with shallot crisps and red wine glaze.
Our main courses were the most delicious combination of moist confit of duck with braised red cabbage, fondant potato and scrumpy cider gravy, accompanied by root vegetables roasted in honey. The seafood mixed grill which included salmon, prawns, seabass and scallops was accompanied by new potatoes and lemon & herb butter. The grill dishes are a speciality of the restaurant and Ben has invested in a new grill and oven. You can choose from rib eye steak with hand cut chips & grilled field mushrooms or salmon steak with guacamole, crushed potatoes and vine tomato dressing. If your desire is for something other than a grill there is plenty to choose from: pan roasted cod steak, white bean, chorizo and tomato casserole & basil oil. Or roast loin of local venison, potato and wild mushroom terrine, beetroot puree and a port and juniper sauce.
Puddings were warm Bakewell tart with clotted cream and syrup sponge with vanilla custard. Both were absolutely delicious; comfort food at its best - although other possibilities were equally tempting: spiced poached pear with pear sorbet and shortbread biscuit or chocolate brownie with chocolate sauce and honeycomb ice cream. We sampled sticky toffee pudding on our last visit a year ago and we can still remember it… We enjoyed a Quercus beer and a pleasant Sauvingnon Blanc with our meal. Ben is compiling an exciting new wine list to accompany his cooking which will be available towards the end of March
The Laughing Monk is open for dinner all week except Sunday. From April they are starting something new, opening from 5.00pm until 9.00pm in that time between 5.00pm and 7.00pm Ben is offering his “5-10-5 early supper menu” where all starters are £5.00 all mains are £10.00 and all sweets are £5.00, from 7.00pm – 9.00pm the A La Carte menu is available. Lunches are by reservation only.
Look out for the restaurant’s open evening on 3rd April when the restaurant will be supporting the RNLI. 3 course meal for £20 plus fun and games with some of the life boat crew, with half of all takings going to the RNLI
The Laughing Monk deserves to be on every diner’s destination list for the year. The chances are once you have dined here you will be back, as we have been, for more than just a second visit.
The Laughing Monk
Totnes Road, Strete, Dartmouth, England TQ6 0RU
01803 770639
click here for opening times, photos & maps
Make sure you mention By The Dart if booking a table as a result of this review.
First Published March 2009 By The Dart