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Cosmo Caddy Food & Drink
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Dappa
Now and then in the foodie world, something new comes along that makes us look at a traditional product in a fresh new way. That’s happening right now in the South Hams with the arrival of Dappa, south Devon’s own grappa-style spirit, the digestivo beloved of the Italians. We met up with local boy Cosmo Caddy who’s reinventing this classic.
Cosmo, would you tell us a bit about your background - I know you have connections to Sharpham but have also been away in California.
My grandfather, Maurice, started the Sharpham vineyard, farm and creamery; the vines were planted around the time I was born and I was helping to pick grapes from the age of 3 or 4. I’ve always loved being down in Devon, and particularly at Sharpham (I grew up in London until the age of 12 when my mum moved back to just outside Totnes). Being around the process of wine-making most of my life, I loved the community of food and drink producers in Devon, meeting them at shows such as the Devon County Show or Dartmouth Regatta each year.
What did you do before entering the world of distilling?
I studied broadcasting at university and worked in television and film for a number of years before joining the Nelson Mandela Foundation to look after the broadcasting of their fundraising concerts around the world. When they decided to relocate their event operation back to South Africa I took the opportunity to move to California and worked again in TV and film and also some charity events out there. Eventually the pull of Devon was too strong and I returned home. So not a natural progression!
Can you explain what grappa is and why you have to call yours Dappa?
Grappa is made from grape skins after they have been used to make wine – the crushed skins are known as ‘pomace’. The Italians say the best grappa is made from the red skins used to make red wine as they have been carefully fermented by the skilled wine-makers before the skins are pressed. Grappa from white skins or red skins that have not gone through fermentation (sparkling/rose etc) have to be then fermented by the distillery without adding water or any liquid – one of the stipulations to be called grappa - and this tends not to have the more subtle flavours that are possible from the red skins. The pomace is then steamed to release the alcohol that is present from the fermentation.
The skill and artfulness of the distiller then comes into play, to remove the water part of the steam and only collect the best part of the alcohol that has been released.
Grappa is a Product of Designated Origin (PDO). Much like champagne, it can only come from Italy and must be made in a specific way. Whilst Dappa is made in exactly the same way as grappa, even using a custom made copper from Italy, it still can’t be called grappa. As there isn’t anyone else in the UK making anything like grappa there was no defined name for it yet. Being made in Devon it seemed almost logical that it should be called Dappa. And once the name was passed by DEFRA, Trading Standards, HMRC and Brussels I thought we ought to stick with it!
What made you come up with the idea of producing Dappa here in Devon as it’s a new product to this area?
Dappa isn’t just new to the area, it’s new to the whole of the UK. I’ve loved grappa for many years and knew it was made from grape skins. I was pretty sure I would be able to convince Sharpham at least to give me their skins so I could get started. The only ingredients in Dappa are the alcohol that has been steamed from the pomace and Sharpham’s own spring water. Once blended, it is cold filtered and bottled.
The prospect of doing something not done before has always been exciting to me and this felt like just the right idea to pursue. After some ‘research’ trips to Italy I was hooked on the idea. (Mmm – we’re a great fan of the research trip ourselves!)
Did you need to get any special equipment or training before you could start?
On my trips to Italy I met a grappa distiller who was the 9th generation of his family to be making grappa. Under his guidance I was able to learn the art and skills involved with grappa production. I was also introduced to a great Italian company that would custom design and build the entire processing plant. It was quite touch-and-go in the run up to the first distillation; the equipment was delayed in production, meaning I had to drive down with a trailer to Italy to collect the 3.5 tons of equipment and tow it back over the Alps and through France so we could start to assemble it. Then the licence from HMRC to distil only arrived 3 days before the first skins were delivered. However, when the first batch was being processed and the distillery felt and smelt just as it should, I was both relieved and excited to be making ‘the real thing’.
Have you had any blind tastings with Italian grappas or feedback from Italian producers?
I have had some informal blind tastings alongside some premium Italian grappas, with the Italian makers of the still equipment as well as my Italian mentor - both times the Dappa came out as the preferred choice which is fantastic! Taking Dappa to the food and drink shows locally has brought very different reactions including one gentleman offering his house and daughter in exchange for just one bottle! Those that know grappa are tending to love Dappa, which is very reassuring. Dappa is entered into a number of international competitions that are still to be judged, so we are keeping all fingers and toes crossed.
The design of the bottle looks great – who did that for you?
I’m very lucky to have some friends from my old TV and film days who work as graphic designers, creating posters for West End shows. They also happen to really like grappa! I hoped to use copper in the design because so much of the equipment is copper and is an essential element in the production process. And then adding the hints of green (using the same pantone colour as for the Devon Flag) to tie the product to its home here in beautiful Devon.
Where can we get hold of Dappa for ourselves?
DAPPA is gradually rolling out, starting from the Italian coffee shop in Totnes (the Curator – also in Dartmouth now too at Woodroast), the shop at Sharpham, The Seahorse, Dartmouth Wines, Totnes Wines, Rumour Wine Bar, Dartington (both the Shops and White Hart), Rendezvous in Exeter and Hix in London. The rolling out is gaining momentum, especially with the miniature bottles; the price has been a bit of a barrier but it is a premium product and if you want an English grappa it’s the only one to have. I’m going to be at Dartmouth Regatta correcting coffee with Dappa – a caffe correto in Italy is enjoyed at any time of day and it’s the grappa that does the correcting - and I’ll also be at the Dartmouth Food Festival in October.
Any good cocktail ideas using Dappa?
I’m hoping to have some proper cocktails created by October. Dappa goes extremely well
with espresso coffee and dark chocolate and for the summer I’ve been mixing it sparingly with Luscombe Hot Ginger over ice, or with the Luscombe lime crush and some mint to make a Devon Mojito.
But I’m always interested to hear what cocktails people are making with it.
By the Dart August 2014
