The Royal Navy arrived in Dartmouth in 1863, in the form of HMS Britannia, an old sailing ship commissioned for naval cadet training in 1859, previously based in Portland. HMS Hindostan joined her in the Dart in 1864. In 1905, the training was moved ashore to the present Britannia Royal Naval College, designed by Sir Aston Webb, which still dominates the town and the river.
The town lost the lease of the “waterbaileywick” in 1860, but in 1863 the Dart Harbour Commission was set up, to improve the port and provide facilities for bigger ships. This enabled the development of the “coal-bunkering” business, which became the mainstay of the port into the 20th century. Hulks were moored in mid-river, allowing large ships to lie alongside and refuel with coal.
Between 1864-7, the Newcomen Road was built to link South Town with the Quay, demolishing many old houses. South Town and Lower Street were widened and a much-needed town drainage scheme implemented. The “New Ground” (now the Royal Avenue Gardens), which had been reclaimed in the late 17th century, was extended in the 1870s, and the south and north Embankments were constructed in the 1880s, to form a continuous quayside from the Lower Ferry to Hardness. School provision expanded slowly, and in 1894 the town raised money to build a purpose-built cottage hospital on the new Embankment. It has only recently closed.
Shipbuilding remained a major source of employment. Two major firms were established by newcomers, Francis Simpson and George Philip. In 1891, Simpson moved to Noss Point, up river on the Kingswear side. Philip & Son were based at Sandquay, and in 1918, bought the Noss works from Simpson Strickland. The family continued to own and manage the firm until the 1960s.
Thepopulation grew rapidly and many poorer families lived in grossly overcrowded slum conditions in the town’s old buildings. Some new houses were built in the centre of the town in the 1920s but the development of the Townstal area did not begin until 1928.
In the First World War, many hundreds of men from the town served their country. The names of over 200 who died are commemorated on the town’s memorials, or were announced in the columns of the Dartmouth Chronicle. Theodore Veale, born in the town who joined the Devonshire Regiment at the start of the war, won the VC. He is commemorated in the Royal Avenue Gardens, alongside the town’s War Memorial.
In the Second World War, the town itself was a target. In September 1942 the Naval College, Philip’s shipyard at Noss and two coaling ships in the river were bombed, causing 25 deaths. In February 1943, the centre of the town was hit, causing 15 deaths. Many others were injured. The Free French Naval Force and the Royal Navy’s 15th Motor Gunboat Flotilla were based in Kingswear. From December 1943, US Forces took over the Royal Naval College. As the build-up began to D-Day, the town and river filled up with men, equipment, landing craft and other shipping. On 3rd June 1944, 485 ships and landing craft left Dartmouth to join the invasion force.
After the war, the Butterwalk, which had been badly damaged, was saved and restored. Many other historic buildings were conserved. Living conditions improved as more new houses were built in Townstal, with schools and other facilities located nearby.
Modern cargo ships cannot use the harbour and the quays no longer load and unload goods from around the world. Instead, there has been an enormous increase in pleasure craft of all kinds. Tourism and leisure industries predominate in the harbour, as in the town. For the future, development is planned in the Townstal area – after over a thousand years of recorded history, the town is returning to its Anglo-Saxon origins.
The Dartmouth History Research Group researches and records the history of Dartmouth and surrounding villages. If you’re interested in Dartmouth’s rich history, have a look at their many publications (available in the Community Bookshop, in the Museum, or directly from the DHRG), at their website www.dartmouth-history.org.uk or go along to one of their meetings – dates are on the home page. It costs nothing to join and new members are always welcome.
First published By The Dart May 2018 Issue